Friday, June 5, 2009
So as some of you know I made a brief visit (5 days) to the Mecca of sport climbing otherwise known as the Red. Since this was only my 2nd visit I went to a different crag each day to try some different climbs in an attempt to discover my style of climbing there. What I found out was that I am MUCH better at severely overhanging routes rather than face climbs. For example, on Tuesday we went to Bob Marley Crag and I sent a fun route called "Bloodbath" 5.12c. It took me four tries and I had a blast on it because it began with some steep climbing then continued out a roof and finished with some easier moves on the headwall. My level of endurance is nowhere near where it should be to send hard at the red but I feel that if I spent a longer amount of time there that I would be sending pretty difficult routes. I also put a burn into Nagypapa 5.13d at Military Wall on Monday & made it to the fourth bolt without any trouble (it only has 5 bolts & then the anchors) but it was getting dark so I had to come down but I want to come back to it when it's colder and the slopers feel better. Well, for now I think I am going to continue training endurance and try to finish off a few routes here in Tennessee including several of the test pieces at Foster's such as: Gas Chamber 5.13a, The Big Empty 5.13b, Turbo Dog 5.13c, and Kill or Be Killed 5.13d. Around the time of our spring break I was working Turbo and on my best attempt I fell clipping the last bolt so hopefully it won't take me too long to do once I start working it again but who knows. I am also hoping to get some video of some of these routes so keep checking my blog because I promise some badass footage will be arriving soon!