Sunday, March 28, 2010

Lactic Acid Bath...

Hello children! Going back to school after an awesome spring break was of course depressing but got me in the mood to climb routes for some reason. I've been training my endurance this past week and I'm actually starting to see some improvement. I went to Tierrany at the Obed yesterday with Audrey, Josh, Amanda, and Christian to try to remember how to climb for more than 10 moves at a time, ha! We warmed up on Huecool Junior 5.10d then I jumped on Jungle Jane 5.12a & sent 2nd go after figuring out the beta on my first attempt. All I can say is that the routes at Tierrany are loooonnnggg! Definitely worth the hike though (its about 45 mins to get there once you park...) This coming weekend is looking like a trip to the Red with Max Marlowe as long as I can re-arrange my work schedule. In the meantime, here's a video of Max on the route I want to project at the Red. It's called "Ultra Perm" 5.13d & is an absolutely gorgeous line with awesome movement..

Max Marlowe - Ultra Perm from Sean Stewart on Vimeo.

Thursday, March 18, 2010

Chatty Update

So Tuesday I went to LRC and climbed with NevernotpsychedNate. My skin took a turn for the worse very quickly as I fell out of the seam at the end of Bedwetters V9. Later that day Biggie Shorty V10 ate the remainder of my skin but I did make significant progress on it by dialing in all but the first move. Unfortunately most of the boulders at LRC were really moist so it made it very difficult to climb hard. Wednesday was a rest day so there's not much to talk about there but today was a beautiful day and I spent most of it murder crushing at Dayton. This morning I warmed up on the roof and crushed Crazy Craver V11 in a few goes. Im very excited to have done this climb because it is a new level for me and has been a goal of mine for a while. After that I hiked around and saw Tim Hinck & Ashley Hamilton working some problems near HSR. After talking to them I threw on my shoes and ended up flashing HSR V7. This climb is really fun and definitely worth doing if you're at Dayton. I ended the day with a quick repeat of Riverdance V9 and putting a few goes into the low start called Lord of the Dance V11. So far this week has been awesome and I still have a couple more days here in Chatty so Im psyched to see what happens

Tuesday, March 16, 2010

In Chattanooga Triiiickk!!!

So as most of you know I'm in Chattanooga for the week and I plan on doing as much bouldering as I can while I'm here. Today turned out to be pretty interesting starting with the drive down which involved me doing an Irish Dance with a total stranger at the BP in Monteagle. The gas station was blaring Irish music even though St. Patty's Day isn't until Wednesday but whatever, I just work with what I'm given. After that I went to the Cumberland/Pep Boys Boulderfield (name is currently being disputed by the powers that be) and dispatched 7/11 (V10) with the quickness. Afterwards I worked out all the moves on Gross' Roof (V11) but no send today. Shortly after that Nick & Kit showed up and we worked Big Gulp (V11), Salo's Roof (V9/5.13c), and Kit repeated my problem "Huckleberry Finn." We both agree that this direct line flows a little bit better than the original jug start and adds enough to the V6 to bump it to V7. So honestly I'm not 100% on this yet but the plan for the week so far looks like: Tues = 1/2 day at LRC, Wed = LRC??, Thurs = Dayton, Fri = Rocktown, Sat = ???/home. Hopefully I'll find some more people to climb with while Audrey is in class. If you're in Chatty and wanna get out hit me up!!!

Friday, March 12, 2010

For the longest time...

Wow, it's been a long ass time since I've updated the blog but it's time. Now that I've actually been getting outside more often I have something to talk about on here, HA! Where to begin...
I've made a few trips to various boulderfields surrounding Chatty this season, and here are a few things I've ticked off the list:

LRC - Spanky V8, Grimace V8/9, The Pinch V8, Castaway Dyno V7, Chronic V7, Man Hands V8, and The Wave V6.

Rocktown: Iron Claw V7, Big Bad V8

Dayton: Honeycomb V10, Riverdance V9, Torpedo V7

This past Sunday I checked out the Pep Boys (Cumberland) Boulders with Audrey Robertson. It's a really neat place with a creek running through it and gorgeous sandstone. After warming up and doing a V6/7ish problem leading out of a roof I worked Salo's Roof V9 for 20 minutes or so then did a really cool pocket problem right on the creek that weighs in at about V7. After doing that I snagged the F.A. of the direct line which starts to the left of the original using the main foothold/crimp rail to start. I'm calling it "Huckleberry Finn" V8.

I am officially on spring break & psyched that the forecast for Chatty is looking better because I'm headed down to crush some boulders & crash with Audrey. Some projects on my list include: Western Gold V11, Stankins V11, Lord of the Dance V11, Crazy Craver V11, 7/11 V10, Biggie Shorty V10, Jah Natty V9/10, Bedwetters V9/10, and I Think I Can V9. It's a long list but hopefully I can knock a few of them out this coming week. I'm going to try to get some footy of these problems so if I manage to get anything that's not crap I'll throw it up on the blog.

On a different note, I have been accepted to, and have enrolled at Appalachian State University starting in the fall. I'm really psyched to be moving to Boone! With all the amazing boulders and chill atmosphere, I know I'm going to love it!

Finally, here are some pictures from trips I've taken over the winter:

Salo's Roof

Huckleberry Finn

Consequences of falling off I Think I Can

A few Honeycomb pics...

Iron Claw